Mindo

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MINDO
Where the Chocoan lowlands meet the tropical Andes 

High up in the cloud forests a two-hour drive west from Quito is the tiny town of Mindo; home to many species of butterfly, rare birds, waterfalls and adventure sports. As one of the world's best birding spots, it has a fair few private reserves and lodges known for their montane forests and unique cloud forest biodiversity (Anderson's family has one such place called San Tadeo Birding). 

Mindo was also recently named the 'Ruta de Cacao' by The Ecuadorian Ministerio de Turismo. Something I sampled first hand of course. My visit to Yumbos (chocolate manufacturers) in the village was an eye-opener. The history and processes involved from start to finish (40 days) are fascinating. And 100% pure cacao melted in scalding milk is something else!

Terrabambu Lodge, Mindo

The picturesque and very comfortable Terrabambu Lodge is situated 4 kms up a rough road high above the village centre. It has stunning views both over the village nestling in the valley and further beyond to the mountains.


Individual cabins surround well manicured gardens and a lovely pool. The raised dining room has views over the forest and a great feeder that attracts Rufous Motmots, Aracaris, many Tanagers and other small coloured birds. The best bird however, has to be the pet Crested Guan who greets guests with soft squeaks and hopes for food. She followed me everywhere and we spent some quality time putting the world to rights over a 'chocolate caliente' (as you can see from the video). She particularly liked crunched up crisps.


The staff were fabulous - friendly, approachable and happy to help (they did some laundry for free when everything I had was damp after I got caught in a rain storm).


Mindo is the perfect centre point to venture out to a huge choice of reserves within easy driving distance. Anderson had plenty of great things planned for me, including visits to:


  • San Tadeo Birding (the Garcia family reserve) and Los Cotingas
  • Amagusa Reserve
  • Paz Refugio de las Aves
  • Balcón Tumpiki
  • Ruta ornitológico
  • Alambi 

San Tadeo and Las Cotingas

Just off the main road above Mindo (see map above), Anderson's family plot is a hummingbird heaven. Over 20 species appear at the feeders for both colibris and humans (comfortable seats, toilets, coffee and bananas) placed all around the double-level open areas. Lush plants, stunning views, fantastic photo opportunities (especially mobile phones) - it's a hugely popular and very reasonably priced attraction.


The Garcia's also run daily visits to Andean Cock of the Rock leks at dawn. An easy climb up through grassland into protective forest accompanied by the increasingly noisy and eery cackle of the males showing off will wake you up. Brief flashes of red will catch your eye before they disappear again but wait long enough and they become emboldened to venture out along the premium branches.


Just along the road is another privately owned reserve - Los Cotingas. This is a wilder plot with ponds and tall trees where raptors such as Hook-billed Kites survey their kingdoms.

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